Jeju 제주

Jeju is South Korea’s largest island and a province of its own, lying in the sea south of the Jeolla coast, an hour’s flight from Seoul. Since 2006 it has been a special self-governing province, and it is divided into just two administrative cities: Jeju City on the north coast, where the airport and most of the population are, and Seogwipo on the south coast. Its subtropical edge, volcanic landscape and relaxed pace make it the country’s favourite domestic holiday destination.

The whole island is the product of volcanic activity. At its centre rises Hallasan, at 1,947 m the highest mountain in South Korea, and its slopes are dotted with hundreds of smaller cones known locally as oreum. Hallasan, the tuff cone of Seongsan Ilchulbong and the Geomunoreum lava tube system were inscribed together by UNESCO as a natural World Heritage Site in 2007. Along the coast, black basalt shores alternate with white-sand beaches, waterfalls drop straight into the sea near Seogwipo, and hexagonal lava columns line the cliffs.

Jeju also has a distinct culture. Its dialect differs strongly from standard Korean, villages are enclosed by dry-stone walls of black lava rock, and the haenyeo, women who free-dive for shellfish and seaweed, remain an emblem of the island. Local food centres on black pork, fresh seafood and tangerines, which are harvested in late autumn and winter.

Many visitors come for the outdoors. The long-distance Jeju Olle trail network circles the island in walkable stages, Hallasan has several summit and partial routes, and the oreum make short, rewarding climbs with views across the farmland to the sea.

Spring brings yellow rapeseed and cherry blossoms, summer is the beach season, and autumn is often the most settled time for hiking, with silver grass covering the oreum. Winters are mild by Korean standards but windy. Almost all visitors fly in; frequent domestic flights connect Jeju with Seoul’s Gimpo Airport, Busan and other cities. The Jeju island guide covers sights by area, and the before you go section explains entry requirements for Korea.