Gyeonggi & Incheon 경기·인천

Gyeonggi Province wraps around Seoul on every side, and together with Incheon Metropolitan City on the west coast it forms the capital region, home to roughly half of South Korea’s population. For travellers the region is less a destination in its own right than a collection of day trips: almost everything here can be reached from central Seoul by subway, commuter train or bus in an hour or two.

The landscape changes quickly once the city is left behind. To the north, Gyeonggi runs up to the Demilitarized Zone, and Paju’s observation points and peace parks give a sobering view across the border. To the north-east, the Bukhan River valley around Gapyeong is a weekend escape of lakes, pine slopes, gardens and riverside guesthouses. To the south, Suwon, the provincial capital, is ringed by Hwaseong Fortress, an 18th-century wall circuit that ranks among the country’s finest examples of Joseon military architecture.

Incheon is where most international visitors first set foot in Korea, since Incheon International Airport lies on Yeongjong Island within the city’s boundaries. The city itself has a long port history: a long-established Chinatown, preserved late-19th-century buildings around the old harbour, and ferries to the islands of the Yellow Sea. Ganghwa Island, also part of Incheon, combines prehistoric dolmens with fortifications that saw clashes with foreign warships in the 19th century.

Folk culture is another draw. The Korean Folk Village in Yongin recreates a Joseon-era settlement, and the restored temporary palace inside Suwon’s walls shows how kings travelled outside the capital. Visitors interested in royal sites should note that several Joseon royal tombs, part of a UNESCO listing, lie scattered across Gyeonggi.

Spring and autumn are the best times for walking the fortress walls or the border parks. Summer suits the Gapyeong river valley, while in winter the gardens of Gapyeong switch to evening light festivals. For the main train connections in and around the capital, see the transportation guide.